The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine. 25 years ago it was hard to have a bad meal in France; now, in some cities and towns, it is a challenge to find even a decent baguette. For the first time in the annals of modern cuisine, the most influential chefs and talked-about restaurants are not French. Cherished artisanal cheeses are threatened with extinction, large segments of the French wine industry are in crisis, and bistros and brasseries are disappearing at an alarming rate. France has become the second most profitable market in the world for McDonald's. A funny, fascinating and passionate look at France: gastronomically, economically and culturally.