Capital in 1812, Helsinki became an ideal city. In a beautiful northern archipelago, supreme neo-classical architecture and visionary planning created an harmonic centre of majestic buildings. Here brief walks reveal these existing masterpieces of Empire-style Helsinki, illuminated by old and new maps and contemporary observers. Exquisite pencil drawings by the author in summer light and winter cold illustrate historic views of the sea fortress, Senate Square, University, state salons and the market. This is a portrait of Helsinki's earliest years, surrounds and life, and Finland's rising national culture from both rare and famous viewpoints.