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Black Designers in American Fashion

Editat de Elizabeth Way
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 28 iul 2021
From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs.In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century "star" designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today.Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350138476
ISBN-10: 1350138479
Pagini: 288
Ilustrații: 61 color illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 21 mm
Greutate: 0.64 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

More historically comprehensive than any other book on African American designers on the market and combines multiple designer biographies in one convenient place

Notă biografică

Elizabeth Way is Associate Curator of Costume at The Museum at FIT, New York, USA. She co-curated the 2016 exhibition Black Fashion Designers.

Cuprins

List of FiguresList of ContributorsAcknowledgementsIntroduction; Elizabeth WaySection I: Anonymous Histories1.The Fabric of Fast Fashion: Enslaved Wearers and Makers as Designers in the American Fashion System; Katie Knowles 2.Liberty's Warp, Slavery's Weft: A Look at the Work of Eighteenth and Nineteenth-Century Enslaved Fashion Makers and Their Descendants; Jonathan Michael Square3.A Matrilineal Thread: Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century Black New York Dressmakers; Elizabeth WaySection II: In the Atelier: Modistes and Independent Designers4.Dressing Up: The Rise of Fannie Criss; Kristen E. Stewart 5.Ruby Bailey: Making for Oneself, A Regional Fashion Designer Case Study; Joy Davis6.Arthur George "Art" Smith: An Artist About Form, A Man About Substance; Kristen J. OwensSection III: Into the Mainstream: Seventh Avenue and Beyond7.Wesley Tann: The Glamour and the Guts; Nancy Deihl 8.Jay Jaxon: An Unsung Couturier; Darnell-Jamal Lisby9.Dapper Dan: The Original Streetwear Designer and Influencer; Ariele Elia Section IV: The Star Designer: National and International Impact10.Color Story: Stephen Burrows's Impact on the World of Fashion; Tanya Danielle Wilson Myers11.Scott Barrie: Designing 1970s New York; Elizabeth Way 12.Race WERK: Williwear and Patrick Kelly Paris; Eric Darnell PritchardPostscript; Elizabeth WayIndex

Recenzii

In many ways [Black Designers in American Fashion] is a sad commentary about the world of fashion, but the knowledge gained here is irreplaceable and found in no other publication. This is not a coffee table book; this is a book that must actually be read in order to comprehend just how important Black designers have been and how in some cases made monumental and historical contributions to fashion.
[Black Designers in American Fashion] provides a good introduction into this often overlooked chapter in fashion history ... Above all, the book highlights the emancipatory power fashion holds.
This fresh collection of essays sheds much-needed light on Black fashion makers-recovering histories many thought were unknowable while centering on the genius of Black design. It is required reading for anyone serious about identity politics, craft, labor, and Black futurity.
Conveys the vast and important impact of Black designers on the American fashion industry through untold stories ranging from descriptions of rare extant garments to pioneering designers ... Required reading for all in the fashion industry.