KINGDOM OF ADVENTURE - EVEREST A CHRONICLE OF MANS ASSAULT ON THE EARTHS HIGHEST MOUNTAIN Narrated by the Participants L. V. STEWART BLACKER CHARLES G. BRUCE GEORGE I. FINCH CHARLES S. HOUSTON C, K. HOWARDBURT R. L. G. IRVING GEORGE LEIGHMALLORT JOHN NOEL E. F. NORTON ,N. E. ODELL HUGH RUTTLEDGE ROBERT L. SCOTT ERIC SHIPTON FRANK S. SMYTHE T. HOWARD SOMERVELL H. W. TILMAN FRANCIS TOUNGHUSBAND With an accompanying text by JAMES RAMSEY ULLMAN CONTENTS I THE HIGH ROAD Introduction II THE UNKNOWN Discovery and Approach III THE FIRST ASSAULT The Expedition of IV SECOND ASSAULT The Expedition of V SIEGE The Expeditions of the Thirties VI WINGS Everest from the Air VII HOW? WHEN? The Problems VIII WHY? The Men and the Motives APPENDICES 1 An Everest Chronology 2 Biographical Motes 3 Glossary of Mountaineering Terms 4 Reading List INDEX LIST OF PLATES Summit of the world 1 East Rongbuk Glacier facing page 2 Glacier Camp 3 Loading at Dochen 4 The Monastery at Shekar Dzong 5 The Rongbuk Monastery 6 The Kama Valley 7 Tigers 8 Camp III and the North Col 9 Mount Everest and the Rongbuk Glacier 10 North Col camp and the northeast ridge 11 George LeighMallory 12 Everesters 13 The northeast ridge and shoulder 14 Approach to the summit 15 Norton at 27,000 feet 16 Mallorys last note 17 The mists close in 18 Ice towers on the East Rongbuk Glacier 19 Everesters 20 Camp IV on the Col facing page 21 Powder snow on the slabs leading toward the summit 22 Looking up 23 Looking down 24 Mount Everest from the Pangla La 25 Climbing the North Col 26 Everest impregnable blanketed in monsoon snow 27 The loads go up 28 The challengers 29 Everest from Base Camp LIST OF MAPS The Himalayas pages The long trail The route toward the summit Approach to the summit diagram