This Way Guide The folk here are more important than the folklore, belying all the myths with their warm hearts, good humour -- and the world's most hospitable B&Bs. Taste those single malts along the Whisky Trail or explore the lochs and glens and lairds' castles in Stirling, Glamis or Linlithgow. Play golf on the green, green courses of St Andrews or Troon. Fish for salmon or trout in the Highland streams or bag the monster in Loch Ness. In this independent-minded country, Edinburgh is a worthy capital for its culture and fine living, grand castle, museums and theatres. Glasgow, proudly refurbished, makes a bold and dynamic rival with its splendid Victorian architecture and vibrant city centre. And the islands are a world unto themselves -- Skye, Arran and Mull to the west, Orkney and Shetlands far to the north.