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Skilled Immigrants in the Textile and Fashion Industries: Stories from a Globe-Spanning History

Editat de Nazanin Hedayat Munroe
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 7 feb 2024
With contributions from leading experts, this edited collection presents original research on the skills brought by immigrant communities to the textile and fashion industries, from the early modern to postmodern periods in Asia and the Islamic World, Europe, Africa, and the Americas.Manufacturing of textiles and apparel is arduous work, which historically depended on skilled artisans, inexpensive labor, and the introduction of labor-saving technology. Immigrant communities supplied much of the work force, bringing their own skill sets to new locations, leading to the development of new manufacturing centers and an increase in both production and technical expertise. Throughout the volume, the role of migration and immigrant involvement in manufacturing is also examined in relation to trade, politics, and socio-religious circumstances prompting relocation.Deconstructing the question of provenance by examining the cultural identity of migrant populations, the research brings to light ongoing dilemmas and practices of diaspora communities. By analyzing material, mythical, and technical aspects of textile and apparel production, contributors create a new narrative about textile- and garment-making as a collective endeavor, requiring diversity of skill and methodology to thrive.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350273238
ISBN-10: 1350273236
Pagini: 264
Ilustrații: 16 color and 25 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 22 mm
Greutate: 0.45 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Includes contributions from rising stars as well as more established academics, coming together to explore production from the viewpoint of textile-making as a form of cultural identity, as well as a means to survival, in a new land.

Notă biografică

Nazanin Hedayat Munroe is Associate Professor and Director of Textiles at City University of New York, USA. An artist and art historian, she received her Ph.D. in art history from University of Bern, Switzerland specializing in early modern silks, and her M.F.A. in Fiber from Cranbrook Academy of Art, USA. Her research for Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity received the Henry Wasser Award for Outstanding Research from the CUNY Academy of Humanities and Sciences at CUNY Graduate Center, where she is newly appointed to the Board as Chair of Interdisciplinary Research.

Cuprins

Part I: Introduction1."Imported Skills: Immigrants, Cloth and Labor", Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, Director of Textiles & Assistant Professor, NYC College of Technology, Brooklyn, New York"History of Silk", Nader Sayadi, Postdoctoral Mellon Fellow, Met Museum, New York"History of the Loom", Maria Smith, Adj. Assistant Professor, Syracuse University, New YorkPart II: Imported myths, imported moths: Silk Production Across Asia2."Of Prophets, Caterpillars and Silver: Job and the Origin-story of Sericulture in the Early Modern Islamic World", Dr. Nader Sayadi, Postdoctoral Mellon Fellow, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York3."Histories of Silken Skills: Immigrant Sericulturalists in Early Modern South Asia", Sylvia Houghteling, Assistant Professor, Bryn Mawr College, Bryn Mawr, PAPart III: Imported Skills: Weaving specialists go global4."Master Craftsmen in Migration: Safavid Silk Weavers in Mughal India" Dr. Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, Director of Textiles; Assistant Professor, NYC College of Technology, Brooklyn, NY5."Weaving Andean Textiles on Islamic Looms: The Use of Imported Treadle Looms in the Colonial Andes", Dr. Maria Smith, Adj. Assistant Professor, Syracuse University, Syracuse, New YorkPart IV: Imported labor: Enslaved and Immigrant Workers in America6."Clothing the Black Body in Slavery", Prof. Wanett Clyde, Assistant Professor, City University of New York - NYC College of Technology7."How the Other Half Works: Perceptions and Realities of Immigrant Labor in the NYC Apparel Industry", Dr. Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, Director of Textiles and Asst. Professor, City University of New York, NYC College of Technology, Brooklyn, New YorkPart V: Imported Culture: Textile as tradition in the Diaspora8."Embodied Practice and Shifting Identities: Silk Weaving as a Cambodian Refugee During and After the Khmer Rouge Regime", Dr. Magali An Berthon, Postdoctoral Marie Curie Research Fellow, Center for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, Denmark9."The Evolution of an Identity: Tracing the Trajectory of Sindhi Arjakh Globally and Across the India-Pakistan border", Prof. Pragya Sharma, Lecturer, Indian Institute of Art and Design, New Delhi, India10. Conclusion, Dr. Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, Director of Textiles; Assistant Professor, NYC College of Technology-CUNY, Brooklyn, New YorkIndex

Recenzii

Extends valuable critical enquiry into the role historically played by workers in textile and garment production. It is an important collection of studies for design history researchers, especially those with an interest in sericulture and silk consumption.
Spanning centuries and continents, the essays in this volume integrate mythology, Abrahamic narratives, plantation ledgers and personal accounts to complement the scholarly analysis of the histories, skill, knowledge and craft that construct individual identity and accompany human migration.