"Williamsburg is a stronghold of the past, a sort of enchanted ground, lovely and quiet as a dream." Williamsburg may no longer be quiet as a dream, but it is certainly lovely and unquestionably a stronghold of the past, more so now than Miss Hildegarde Hawthorne could have dreamt when she penned these words in 1917. After Virginia's capital moved from Williamsburg to Richmond in 1780, the city sank into one and a half centuries of sleepy obscurity punctuated only by the Civil War. From 1928 to 1932, however, John D. Rockefeller Jr. restored the city to its colonial glory, and it leaped from impoverished backwater to tourist mecca within the space of a few years.