Benjamin on Fashion: Walter Benjamin Studies
Autor Philipp Ekardten Limba Engleză Paperback – 25 aug 2021
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Specificații
ISBN-13: 9781350262324
ISBN-10: 1350262323
Pagini: 256
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 19 mm
Greutate: 0.36 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Academic
Seria Walter Benjamin Studies
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom
ISBN-10: 1350262323
Pagini: 256
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 19 mm
Greutate: 0.36 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Academic
Seria Walter Benjamin Studies
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom
Caracteristici
Contextualizes Benjamin within a field of canonical and less canonical names such as Jean Patou, Elsa Schiaparelli, but also German fashion critic Helen Grund
Notă biografică
Philipp Ekardt is a NOMIS Research Fellow at eikones - Center for the Theory and History of the Image at the University of Basel, Switzerland.
Cuprins
Fashion-Forward Benjamin: A Brief Introduction - Fashion-forward Benjamin - A qualifying remark: The limits of this study and the positivity of fashion - Textual basis Part One - Time/Fashion Models 1 On Some Systematic Aspects of Benjamin's Fashion Theory - Has fashion ever been modern? - Fashion as model and as chronotechnics - Benjamin's fashion passage - From phenomena in time to models of time - Fashion changes little - Being in fashion, being form (Simmel) - Differentials of time and deviations of direction - Any past's contemporary: Fashion as a temporal qualifier (the sentimental education of the discontinuous) - Yesterday, and the day before (sorting time and what has gone out of style) - Zeitkern (time kernel) - The ends of Benjamin's time/fashion model I: Revolution - The ends of Benjamin's time/fashion model II: Historical apocatastasis Part Two - Benjamin and the Fashion of his Time 2 The Contingent Primacy of Sex(es) - A sudden affluence: The view of garments gliding by - Waists are up, skirts are down (1929/1930) - An onscreen vignette: L'Herbier, Helm, Louiseboulanger - Should Benjamin have attended fashion shows? Helen Grund, the expert - The only contemporaneous fashion thinker - The contingent primacy of sex - (Schiaparelli's) Genital millinery - Fashion, whores, Surrealists (The pitfalls of allegory and the forgetting of labor) - Beyond the logic of the placeholder. Schiaparelli's (and Dora Benjamin's) fashion work - Morphology of the silhouette (Benjamin vs. Focillon) 3 In/Elegant Materialisms - Grund's additional notes on the essence of fashion (an unpublished fragment from the Walter Benjamin-Archiv) - A theory of elegance: The animation of garments according to Helen Grund- Theory of modeling - The immanence of elegance - Taking it to the industry - Thing and dress (Schiaparelli, Apollinaire) - The extraneous temporality of the fashion phenomenon - The supple and the rigid: Two tendencies in 1930s Paris Couture - Vionnet and the Pavillon de l'Élégance - Versions of inertia: Persistence of the fashion form - The non-givenness of material - Materialism à la mode 4 The Tiger's Leap and the Expression of History - The charm of the previous century: A Manet show, a Belle Epoque collection, and filmic dreams of fashions past- Striking a note in fashion history - Morphology in history: Time as ground - The tiger's leap as expression of the economy (Benjamin's fashion ideology)
Recenzii
Philipp Ekardt's monograph stands out with its originality within a multitude of Benjaminiana studies compiled over the decades. it is a superbly researched, theoretically sophisticated, and highly erudite book, that is also extraordinarily lucid and delightful to read. I hope that it will quickly find its way to a variety of graduate and undergraduate reading lists.
Benjamin on Fashion not only offers an exemplary study of Walter Benjamin's fashion theory. It can also be read as the reconstruction of a different constellation between fashion, art and theory, which invites us to reassess their interrelation today.
Fashion is a fact: If you wish to think through fashion in order to better understand time, history and sexuality, poverty and luxury, read this brilliant analysis by Philipp Ekardt. On top of all this, you will also discover a new Walter Benjamin.
Benjamin on Fashion not only offers an exemplary study of Walter Benjamin's fashion theory. It can also be read as the reconstruction of a different constellation between fashion, art and theory, which invites us to reassess their interrelation today.
Fashion is a fact: If you wish to think through fashion in order to better understand time, history and sexuality, poverty and luxury, read this brilliant analysis by Philipp Ekardt. On top of all this, you will also discover a new Walter Benjamin.