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Fashion Before Plus-Size: Bodies, Bias, and the Birth of an Industry: Dress Cultures

Autor Lauren Downing Peters
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 12 iul 2023
In 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women's apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry's few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated history-one that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture.Although many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as "overweight." While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated larger women to fashion's peripheries. By 1915, however, fashion forecasters predicted that so-called "stoutwear" was well positioned to become one of the most lucrative subsectors of the burgeoning ready-to-wear trade. In the years that followed, stoutwear manufacturers set out to create more space for the fat woman in fashion but, in doing so, revealed an ancillary motivation: that of how to design fat out of existence altogether.Fashion Before Plus-Size considers what came "before" plus-size fashion while also shedding new light on the ways that the fashion industry not only perpetuates but produces weight bias. By situating stoutwear at the confluence of mass manufacturing, beauty ideals, standardized sizing, health discourse, and consumer culture, this book exposes the flawed foundations upon which the contemporary plus-size fashion industry has been built.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350172548
ISBN-10: 1350172545
Pagini: 216
Ilustrații: 42 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 18 mm
Greutate: 0.57 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Seria Dress Cultures

Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

By providing a behind-the-scenes glimpse into how designers, retailers, and advertisers describe women, Fashion Before Plus-Size exposes the conscious and unconscious biases of the industry and how the fashion industry perpetuates weight insecurity and fat stigma

Notă biografică

Lauren Downing Peters is Assistant Professor of Fashion Studies and Director of the Fashion Study Collection at Columbia College Chicago. Her interdisciplinary research broadly explores the entanglements of dress, the body, and identity; histories of American fashion and style; and the past, present, and future of plus-size fashion.

Cuprins

List of FiguresAcknowledgmentsIntroductionFashion Before Plus-SizeRe-fashioning Fat HistoryThe Slender Ideal, Fat Stigma & Weight BiasA History of Fashion Without FashionA Note on TerminologyChapter Outline1. Creating ConsumersThe New NormalSizing Up StoutnessBeyond the "Perfect 36"The Problem With Fat2. Designing for DisorderBuilding Better BodiesModernist Fashions, Modernist BodiesBody-as-CanvasThe Art & Science of Looking Slender3. Fitting the MindThe Psychology of SellingFat Bodies, Thin SkinFat, Large or Stout?Small Advertisements for Large Sizes4. Parables of OverweightThe Parable of the DeludedThe Parable of the MatronThe Parable of the DomesticThe Parable of the Style Blind5. The Forgotten WomanThe Everywoman: Jane Warren WellsThe Vaudevillian: Sophie TuckerThe Mother of the Blues: Gertrude "Ma" RaineyConclusionFashion's Slenderness ImperativeA Provocation: Toward and Epistemology of "Fat Clothes"NotesBibliographyIndex

Recenzii

In this impeccably researched and elegantly written book, Lauren Downing Peters explores the complexity of a topic that remains relevant even 100 years after the invention of "stoutwear" as a fashion category. In content and expression, it exemplifies the best of fashion scholarship and enhances the narrative of 20th-century fashion.
A fascinating historical genealogy of what we now know today as "plus-size" fashion. Peters' thorough and extensive historical scholarship, coupled with the clarity of her writing, make this book essential reading for anyone interested to understand the contemporary fashion industry and trace fashion's obsession with body size and shape.
The first history of its kind, this book makes an indispensable contribution to the fields of fashion studies, fat studies and cultural history.