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Fashion Criticism: An Anthology

Editat de Professor Francesca Granata
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 24 feb 2021
This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan-the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize-and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called "women's pages" to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton Als (New Yorker).Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde's editorials in The Woman's World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today's proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350058811
ISBN-10: 1350058815
Pagini: 240
Ilustrații: 30 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 189 x 246 x 24 mm
Greutate: 0.73 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Provides not only a historical overview of the field but also important examples of fashion criticism on which students can model their own writing.

Notă biografică

Francesca Granata is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design. She is the author of Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body, and editor of the non-profit journal Fashion Projects.

Cuprins

Acknowledgments viiiIntroduction 1PART I Late Nineteenth Century-1960sIntroduction to PART I 131 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman's Dress Oscar Wilde 172 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt) Oscar Wilde 193 Philosophic Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King's Highway? Dame Rogue [Louise Norton] 234 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt) Dame Rogue [Louise Norton] 275 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed Dame Rogue [Louise Norton] 316 Feminine Fashions Lois Long 357 Feminine Fashions Lois Long 378 Copying a Fancy Name Elizabeth Hawes 399 News . News . News . Elizabeth Hawes 4510 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at Balenciaga Eugenia Sheppard 5111 A Mini for Men? Eugenia Sheppard 5312 A Campaign Issue-Clothes? Eleni Epstein 5513 Candidates in a Tie on Fashion's Slate Eleni Epstein 57PART II 1970s-1990sIntroduction to PART II 6114 The Wound in the Face Angela Carter 6515 Feminine Fashions: The Fall Collections II Kennedy Fraser 6916 Looking with Avedon Susan Sontag 7717 What Happened to the Afro? Bebe Moore Campbell 8118 Ralph Lauren's Achievement Holly Brubach 8719 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded Holly Brubach 9520 Haute Coiffure de Gel Elizabeth Wilson 10321 Hippie Heaven Eve Babitz 10722 Calvinism Unclothed Valerie Steele 11323 Coming Apart Amy Spindler 11924 The Once and Future Suit Anne Hollander 12525 Sexualities Anne Hollander 12926 The Eastern Bloc Lynn Yaeger 13327 Avant Guardians Lynn Yaeger 13728 The Only One Hilton Als 13929 Buying the Fantasy Hilton Als 14730 Fashion's Military Fascination: Unsettling, Romantic Esthetic Suzy Menkes 151PART III Twenty-first CenturyIntroduction to PART III 15531 Future, Take Note: Raf Simons Was Here Cathy Horyn 15932 Hussein Chalayan: Nostalgia for the Future Caroline Evans 16333 The Misfit Judith Thurman 16934 Dressed to Thrill: Alexander McQueen at the Met Judith Thurman 17935 Why I Hate Abercrombie & Fitch (Excerpt) Dwight A. McBride 18336 The Mystery Man: Margiela, Be Mine Sarah Mower 19337 All Hail the Leader of the Fashionable World Robin Givhan 19738 The Revolution Will Be Branded Vetements Anja Aronowsky Cronberg 20139 Will I Get a Ticket? A Conversation about Life after Vogue with Lucinda Chambers Anja Aronowsky Cronberg 20540 Trump vs. the Disappearing Tie Vanessa Friedman 20941 Suket Dhir, Men's Wear Designer, from Delhi to the World Guy Trebay 21342 Melania Trump and the Chilling Artifice of Fashion Rhonda Garelick 21743 Is Wokeness in Fashion Just Another Illusion? Connie Wang 219Sources and Acknowledgments 222Index 225

Recenzii

Seven billion humans on the planet clothe or adorn themselves every day. Yet the subject of dress - it's language; its influence on the way we express our identities, desires, allegiances, aspirations and (in many cases, our servitude) - has rarely been considered worthy of serious inquiry. This essential anthology of essays on fashion corrects that oversight ... and it does so with exceptional verve and intelligence.
From Oscar Wilde's musing on corsets to Connie Wang's discussion of Wokeness, this dazzling compendium of critical fashion writing-with a sweep of over one hundred years-is as fun to read as it is intellectually provocative.
[Fashion Criticism: An Anthology] represents a step forward to considering fashion criticism a respected discipline alongside cultural criticism. Moreover, it can be a very useful resource for those who wish to deepen their knowledge on the subject, and it might even help them develop their own critical skills for fashion writing. Eventually, this anthology demonstrates how politics, gender, race, and other socio cultural issues are extremely interconnected with the matters of dress. Fashion criticism can be another way of examining those contexts and enrich the conversation with new, stimulating perspectives.
Reprints of lesser-known essays (Campbell's "What Happened to the Afro?"), plus essays that use a variety of approaches, from glamorous description (Long's "Feminine Fashions"), to social theory (Sontag's "Looking with Avedon"), make this a solid primer on cultural criticism and fashion journalism.
A welcome anthology of fashion criticism establishing that writing about fashion can be as influential as designing it. Ranging across late nineteenth century gazettes, twentieth century newspapers and twenty-first century posts, it's a key reference work for reading about how fashion measures up.