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Menswear Revolution: The Transformation of Contemporary Men’s Fashion

Autor Jay McCauley Bowstead
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 16 mai 2018
In recent years, menswear has moved decisively center stage. Menswear Revolution investigates the transformation of men's fashion through the lens of shifting masculinities, examining how its increasing diversity has created new ways for men to explore and express their identities. Harnessing sustained market growth and creative dynamism on the runway, ground-breaking designers from Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane to Craig Green have revolutionized the discipline with their bold re-imaginings of the male wardrobe.Analysing the role of the media in shaping attitudes to men's fashion, Menswear Revolution studies how competing narratives of masculinity are reflected in popular discourse. Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene - and looks at the evolution of the 'ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashion professionals with close analyses of garments and advertising, Menswear Revolution provides an authoritative account of menswear design today. Highlighting its relationship to changing concepts of gender, the book provides a much-needed update to scholarship on masculinity, fashion and the body.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781474289016
ISBN-10: 1474289010
Pagini: 224
Ilustrații: 50 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 14 mm
Greutate: 0.39 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Includes important figures and fashion houses in menswear design, from Raf Simons, Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin and Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme, to JW Anderson, Burberry and Alessandro Michele of Gucci

Notă biografică

Jay McCauley Bowstead lectures in Cultural and Historical Studies at London College of Fashion and writes on design, gender and material culture. With a background in fashion he has worked for brands including Burberry and Les Chiffoniers, and for Anglo-Korean label Design Workers.

Cuprins

List of IllustrationsIntroduction1. Disciplinary Discourses· New Markets· New Men?· Hipster Hate· Performance Anxiety· Fearing Femininity· Reverse Discourse· Contested Masculinities2. Historical Resonances · Fashion and Modernity· The Birth of Consumer Culture· The 1980s· Authenticity and Irony3. Body Language: towards a phenomenology of masculinity· Embodied and Disembodied Masculinities: the male body in the twentieth century· The Liberated body· Holding out for a hero· The 1990s and its legacy· The Fourth Sex: Androgyny and Objectification4. Millennial Men· Subculture, Music & Fashion· Queering Men's Fashion· Millennial Men5. The Shock of the New· The State of the Art: menswear since 2010· Androgyny in Contemporary Menswear· Workers of the world unite· Athleisure· Deconstructing tailoring· The New Monasticism· The Shock of the NewConclusionBibliography Index

Recenzii

McCauley Bowstead's talent lies not only his is deft handling of an enormous quantity of material, but also in his ability to write coherently with sophistication. His work is like a bespoke suit compared to ready-to-wear. You know-and appreciate-the difference once you slip it on. Menswear Revolution is quality craftsmanship.
Bowstead's book is an excellent contribution to the growing menswear bookshelf. Articulating his own experiences of searching for and wearing fashions that were at the edge of acceptability, and the blurring of gender conventions in his dress, is an important facet in the success of this book, along with his ability to succinctly summarise historical precedents and theoretical perspectives. The work is sophisticated yet accessible and I, for one, would heartily recommend that this takes its place in key reading texts for students of fashion, design, history and cultural studies and academics' Christmas wishlists.