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Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men and the Culture of Needlework

Autor Joseph McBrinn
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 7 apr 2021
The history of men's needlework has long been considered a taboo subject. This is the first book ever published to document and critically interrogate a range of needlework made by men. It reveals that since medieval times men have threaded their own needles, stitched and knitted, woven lace, handmade clothes, as well as other kinds of textiles, and generally delighted in the pleasures and possibilities offered by all sorts of needlework. Only since the dawn of the modern age, in the eighteenth and the nineteenth centuries, did needlework become closely aligned with new ideologies of the feminine. Since then men's needlework has been read not just as feminising but as queer.In this groundbreaking study Joseph McBrinn argues that needlework by male artists as well as anonymous tailors, sailors, soldiers, convalescents, paupers, prisoners, hobbyists and a multitude of other men and boys deserves to be looked at again. Drawing on a wealth of examples of men's needlework, as well as visual representations of the male needleworker, in museum collections, from artist's papers and archives, in forgotten magazines and specialist publications, popular novels and children's literature, and even in the history of photography, film and television, he surveys and analyses many of the instances in which "needlemen" have contested, resisted and subverted the constrictive ideals of modern masculinity.This audacious, original, carefully researched and often amusing study, demonstrates the significance of needlework by men in understanding their feelings, agency, identity and history.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781472578051
ISBN-10: 1472578058
Pagini: 272
Ilustrații: 16 colour and 71 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 18 mm
Greutate: 0 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Covers the history of men's engagement with all forms of needlework: embroidery, knitting, crocheting, sewing and lace-making

Notă biografică

Joseph McBrinn is Reader in Art & Design History at Belfast School of Art, Ulster University in Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Cuprins

List of IllustrationsPrefaceAcknowledgements1. "Only sissies and women sew": an introduction 2. Needlework and the creation of masculinities: "the prick" of patriarchy3. "Killing the angel in the house": Victorian manliness, domestic handicrafts and homosexual panic 4. "The mesh canvas": amateur needlecrafts, masculinity and modernism5. Masculinity and "the politics of cloth": from the "bad boys" of postmodern art to the "the boys that sew club" of the new millennium6. Conclusion: "Men who Embroider" Notes Select BibliographyIndex

Recenzii

This book pricks your creative imagination. It will enable you to unpick and weave the history of men's needlework and it will encourage you to pay a little more attention to those queer and subversive stitches.
A comprehensive study of men who turned to needlework ... [McBrinn's] present-day analyses are the liveliest, unpicking long-held notions of femininity and masculinity within the field of cultural production.
An insightful, humorous, yet poignant and empathetic exploration of the history of men in the field of embroidery.
McBrinn's book marks an urgent intervention in the field of craft studies and it will be an essential text for those interested in the history of needlework and masculinity ... it will also become an important starting point for scholars looking to explore much wider, more diverse and inclusive approaches to investigations of queerness and craft in the future.
I devoured this in one sitting ... McBrinn has drawn together such a readable history of this hitherto overlooked subject, which not only demands to be recognised alongside Rozsika Parker's, but prompts fresh discourse on men's history in needlework.
[A] thoughtfully fluid theorization of masculinity, homosexuality and subcultures, as well as class and race, into a nuanced analysis grounded in fascinating textual and visual primary sources.
McBrinn deftly synthesizes a range of historically sited meanings of needlework and masculinity, providing any reader with just as many referents as potential forking paths to take up in their own research. In this way, McBrinn extends the relay of feminist scholarship outward-a moving example of the practice of queer and feminist solidarity.
This book certainly makes one think in new ways about the multiplicity of masculinities and the ways these different needlework-centred contexts shifted and shaped the various and evolving meanings, interpretations, and interactions. [T]he book is highly recommended to the general reader and not just those interested in needlework and related histories.
Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men and the Culture of Needlework provides an intelligent and evocative examination of the performance and perception of men who took up embroidery. ... McBrinn provides an incisive historiographic appraisal that maintains an expansive and generous tone throughout.
Joseph McBrinn adds immeasurably to [needlework] literature through an unprecedented focus on men who sew. His richly researched and engagingly written narrative shows how various formations of modern masculinity have found expression through this medium. Queering the Subversive Stitch is at once a major scholarly contribution and a moving story about men's lives.
But for the fact I couldn't put this book down, I would have taken up a needle and thread and started sewing. McBrinn takes us on an astonishing journey through the needlepoint and embroidery of nineteenth century sailors, Hollywood film idols, trade unionists and those in mourning at the height of the AIDS pandemic. Over 80 images show us men at work with their needles on deck, at home, in groups and in public; they illustrate the gamut of that work - from the floral and religious to the activist and tenderly homoerotic. This is very far from a niche history - it stiches together countercultures and elites, histories of masculinity and sexuality, and queer and gender theory. And McBrinn does this deftly - developing sophisticated, incisive arguments about the history, status and meaning of men sewing with wit and an enviable light touch.