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The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers

Editat de Nancy Deihl
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 23 iul 2019
This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350104075
ISBN-10: 1350104078
Pagini: 272
Ilustrații: 60 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 mm
Greutate: 0.59 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

This is the first published in-depth consideration of these important designers in American fashion history (many of whom have pieces featured in museum collections across the US). No other book brings them together in one place

Notă biografică

Nancy Deihl is Director of the Costume Studies MA program at New York University, USA, specializing in the history of fashion and textiles from 1850 to the present. Deihl is co-author, with Daniel James Cole, of The History of Modern Fashion (2015).

Cuprins

List of Illustrations List of Contributors Introduction, Nancy Deihl I. Design Innovators1. Jessie Franklin Turner: An Intimate Affair, Jan Glier Reeder2. Virginia Woods Bellamy: The Poet as Knitter, Ann W. Braaten and Susan M. Strawn 3. Tina Leser: Global Vision, April Calahan4. Sandra Garratt: Modular Clothing, Daniel James ColeII. Developing an Industry5. Marion McCoy and Pauline Fracchia: Mid-20th-century Originators, Jean L. Parsons and Sara B. Marcketti6. Fira Benenson: The People's Countess, Michael Mamp7. Helen Lee and Suzanne Godart: Chic For Children, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Sara B. Marcketti8. Nicki "Catherine Scott" Ladany: Chicago's Empress of Fashion, Adam MacPharlain9. Jean Wright: the "real" Lilli Ann, Hannah Schiff10. Mollie Parnis: Tastemaker, Annette Becker11. Elizabeth "Libby" Payne: Designing for Mrs. Main Street America, Caroline A. Surrarrer and Catherine Amoroso Leslie12. Ruth Finley's Fashion Calendar, Natalie Nudell III. Hollywood, Broadway, and Seventh Avenue13. Viola Dimmitt: Los Angeles Entrepreneur, Shelly Foote14. Kiviette: Star Performer, Dilia López-Gydosh 15. Zelda Wynn Valdes: Uptown Modiste, Nancy Deihl16. Vicky Tiel: A Couturière in Paris, Lourdes Font BibliographyIndex

Recenzii

With copious notes, a few photos, and lengthy bibliographies following every chapter, this volume is especially useful for fashion historians and others who want to know more about the industry in the 20th century-and the women who helped it grow.
What will likely make [this] an invaluable resource for fashion historians and students, is not only the fact that under-valued female designers receive recognition, but also that the chapters highlight the interrelationships of some of America's most prominent fashion professionals ... Sixteen excellent chapters [are] all rooted in an exceptional use of primary sources including museum garment collections, trade periodicals, archive materials, and original interviews with key individuals ... These books are exceptional collections of essays, timely in their arrival and inspirational in terms of the continued broadening scope of work to be done on US and global fashion.
This excellent collection of biographical essays provides exceptional insight into the development of the fashion industry, and the designers who have toiled in anonymity to dress the American public.
These unique, previously untold stories of eighteen American women offer readers an unprecedented insight into the world of fashion in the 20th century. This inspiring collection will surely motivate scholars to follow in the footsteps of these authors.
This welcome volume focuses on the contributions of little-known but influential designers, an important step in adding greater depth to the complex and compelling story of American fashion.