Isabella Bird was a gifted observer of her surroundings and an intrepid adventurer. Her epic and austere trek from the capital of Meiji-era Japan northward to and thru Hokkaido gives readers a unique look at late 1800's Japan through the eyes of a westerner. By her rich prose, Bird draws a vivid word picture of the harsh life that confronted not only travelers but the average Japanese. Bird's account is a page turner--one that makes readers feel as if they are accompanying Bird on her trailblazing odyssey. Although the incessant fleas and mosquitoes biting throughout the night can almost be felt, so can the legendary courtesy and hospitality that are the hallmarks of the Japanese culture. This book can be appreciated by all, but especially by those who have traveled or lived in Japan.