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Dressing the Elite: Clothes in Early Modern England

Autor Susan J. Vincent
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 31 oct 2003
Clothing occupies a complex and important position in relation to human experience. Not just utilitarian, dress gives form to a society's ideas about the sacred and secular, about exclusion and inclusion, about age, beauty, sexuality and status. In Dressing the Elite, the author explores the multiple meanings that garments held in early modern England. Clothing was used to promote health and physical well-being, and to manage and structure, life transitions. It helped individuals create social identities and also to disguise them. Indeed, so culturally powerful was the manipulation of appearances that authorities sought its control. Laws regulated access to the dress styles of the elite, and through less formal strategies, techniques of disguise were kept as the perquisites of the powerful. Focusing on the elite, the author argues that clothing was not just a form of cultural expression but in turn contributed to societal formation. Clothes shaped the configurations of the body, affected spaces and interactions between people and altered the perceptions of the wearers and viewers. People put on and manipulated their garments, but in turn dress also exercised a reverse influence. Clothes made not just the man and the woman, but also the categories of gender itself. Topics covered include cross-dressing, sumptuary laws, mourning apparel and individual styles.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781859737460
ISBN-10: 1859737463
Pagini: 240
Ilustrații: 26 b&w illustrations, bibliography, index
Dimensiuni: 138 x 216 x 21 mm
Greutate: 0.4 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Berg Publishers
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Also available in paperback, 9781859737514 £17.99 (November, 2003)

Notă biografică

Susan Vincent Independent Scholar

Cuprins

Contents
Abbreviations
Introduction
'When I am in Good Habitt'
History and Dress
The Meaning of Clothing and the Clothing of Meaning in Early Modern England
Chapter 1 Fashioning Appearances
The Wardrobe - Men
The Wardrobe - Women
Reviewing the Wardrobe
Chapter 2 Addressing the Body
Outwardly for Defence - Inwardly for Cleanliness
Bodily Transitions
Clothing Grief
Chapter 3 Clothes Make the Man
His Garments Helpe Him to bee Counted Such a One
Godly Apparel
The Way of Wearing - Hat Honour
To See and be Seen
Increasing Visibility - Portraits and Livery
Punishment and Shame
A Very Good Fancy in Making Good Clothes
Chapter 4 None Shall Wear Dress and the Law
Economic Regulation
Moral Regulation
Social Regulation
Deformity and Change - Discipline and Display
Doomed to Failure?
Chapter 5 Them and Us, He or She?
The Rogue
Being and Seeming
Actors and Courtiers
Wo to Men
Cross-Dressing
Conclusion From Riches to Rags
Bibliography

Recenzii

This will be a very important publication. Susan Vincent uses techniques of historical and literary analysis to move beyond the conventional narratives of clothing history. It is a significant contribution and should be read by more than those with an existing interest in Early Modern England.

Descriere

Clothing occupies a complex and important position in relation to human experience. It gives form to society's ideas about the sacred and secular, about exclusion and inclusion, about age, beauty, sexuality and status. This title explores the meanings that garments held in early modern England.