Midwestern Food: A Chef’s Guide to the Surprising History of a Great American Cuisine, with More Than 100 Tasty Recipes

en Limba Engleză Hardback – 20 sep 2023

An acclaimed chef offers a historically informed cookbook that will change how you think about Midwestern cuisine.

Celebrated chef Paul Fehribach has made his name serving up some of the most thoughtful and authentic regional southern cooking—not in the South, but in Chicago at Big Jones. But over the last several years, he has been looking to his Indiana roots in the kitchen, while digging deep into the archives to document and record the history and changing foodways of the Midwest.

Fehribach is as painstaking with his historical research as he is with his culinary execution. In Midwestern Food, he focuses not only on the past and present of Midwestern foodways but on the diverse cultural migrations from the Ohio River Valley north- and westward that have informed them. Drawing on a range of little-explored sources, he traces the influence of several heritages, especially German, and debunks many culinary myths along the way.

The book is also full of Fehribach’s delicious recipes informed by history and family alike, such as his grandfather's favorite watermelon rind pickles; sorghum-pecan sticky rolls; Detroit-style coney sauce; Duck and manoomin hotdish; pawpaw chiffon pie; strawberry pretzel gelatin salad (!); and he breaks the code to the most famous Midwestern pizza and BBQ styles you can easily reproduce at home. But it is more than just a cookbook, weaving together historical analysis and personal memoir with profiles of the chefs, purveyors, and farmers who make up the food networks of the region.

The result is a mouth-watering and surprising Midwestern feast from farm to plate. Flyover this!

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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9780226819495
ISBN-10: 0226819493
Pagini: 280
Ilustrații: 13 halftones
Dimensiuni: 178 x 254 x 30 mm
Greutate: 0.84 kg
Ediția:First Edition
Editura: University of Chicago Press
Colecția University of Chicago Press

Notă biografică

Paul Fehribach is an eight-time James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Great Lakes; and owner of the critically acclaimed Chicago restaurant, Big Jones. He was born and raised in the rolling wooded hills of Southern Indiana, and learned to hunt, fish, and find wild foods from an early age. Ample time spent on the family farms of relatives together with the woodland backdrop instilled a keen palate in him, reflected in the big, clean flavors he puts on the table along with a heated passion for true seasonal cooking. His book Midwestern Food: A Chef’s Guide to the Surprising History of a Great American Cuisine, with More Than 100 Tasty Recipes was named a book of the year by Food and Wine, Bon Appétit, and Eater. He is likewise the author of The Big Jones Cookbook: Recipes for Savoring the Heritage of Regional Southern Cooking, also published by the University of Chicago Press.

Extras

Grandma Morelos, riding shotgun, held court while the Sobeleskis and Fehribachs swayed and bobbled down Gratiot Avenue in East Detroit as Dad navigated, weaving the ocher- hued Dodge Tradesman van through mid-morning traffic past a booming downtown before catching the highway to the southwest side. Our destination was a relatively new addition to the Mexican-town enclave, La Gloria Bakery, which would thrive through decades of tumultuous change in the erstwhile Motortown to become an institution, an important stop for anyone looking for a taste of Mexico in Detroit.
The adults had their own agenda— to secure some chorizo, tortillas, and avocados at the grocery on the corner— but for me, there was one reason and one reason only to be in Mexicantown, and that was the panes dulces— sweet, rich yeast breads with any number of glazes and toppings in a mind- bending array of shapes and designs, displayed alongside cookies and cakes made with the same marvelous creativity in a long, floor- to- ceiling wood and glass display case. My most rabid obsession was the one smeared with a red jam, raspberry or strawberry perhaps, but to my young palate the flavor was just a delightful fruity red, then showered with a snow of coconut that reminded me of the dreams that live inside a snow globe. It would yield to my bite with a pillowy softness laced with the tang of fruit, the perfume of yeast, and the heady aroma of coconut. The pan dulce never made it all the way back to Grandma’s home in Roseville, the working- class ward populated by a diverse mix of people who powered the city’s tool and die factories, providing existential support to the automobile industry.
Summer visits to Detroit were the highlight of the year. There was Grandma, of course, and Grandpa Fernando, and aunts and uncles and cousins from Mom’s family, but most alluring was the magnetism of a more diverse America than we lived in day- to- day in the WASP- y southern Indiana woods. Mom’s family was a curiously American and outrageously fun blend of Grandma’s 3 Ulster Appalachian and Florida bush heritage, her Mexican husbands and the children they bore, Uncle John’s Polish immigrant whimsy, and the hip, urbane stylings of Uncle Olin and Aunt Carol, who introduced me to the music of Prince years before it percolated to our small town. Most consequential to me today is the early exposure those trips to Detroit gave me to a diverse array of foods deeply embedded in their cultures. To experience these through family is akin to programming your soul.
Back home in the brown clapboard bungalow east of Jasper, I begged a place in the kitchen as soon as I could stand on a chair and reach over the counter. I preferred my twin sister Pam’s Easy- Bake Oven to sports or more “masculine” pursuits, attempting every trick I could muster to coax “red” flavors out of everything from cookies to brownies and biscuits as I chased an obsession with strawberries and cherries, though I quickly learned that red food color would not impart the coveted flavor. But somehow I was undeterred, and I would ultimately pursue the culinary vocation, never giving up the mind- set of a tinkerer even in the big city. There is no escaping a youth in the woods, however, and ironically, I am as infatuated with the country as a man as I was with the city when I was a boy.

Cuprins

Introduction
Chapter 1: On Relishes, Sweets, and Sours: Pickles and Preserves
Meet the Locals: Justin Dean
Chapter 2: A Country Well Lit: Cocktails
Meet the Locals: Andy Hazzard
Chapter 3: Baker’s Delight: Breads
Meet the Locals: Titus Ruscitti
Chapter 4: Of State Fairs, Tailgates, and Main Street Cafés: Sandwiches and Handheld Food
Chapter 5: Please Pass the Corn: Vegetables and Sides
Meet the Locals: Rob Connoley
Chapter 6: Pull Up a Chair: Meat and Potatoes
Meet the Locals: Marty and Will Travis
Chapter 7: Burgerlandia
Chapter 8: Midwestern Barbecue
Chapter 9: A Pizza Tour
Meet the Locals: Stephanie Hart
Chapter 10: Sweets: Pies, Cakes, Cookies, and Confections
Meet the Locals: Erika Allen
Chapter 11: What Next, Heartland?
Acknowledgments
Notes
Bibliography
Index

Recenzii

“Deeply researched and including recipes and profiles of people who call the Midwest home, this book reads like a scholarly text and a call for the food world to recognize the Midwest as a powerhouse culinary region.”

"With more than 100 recipes from across the region (some his own, others adapted from old cookbooks) and the fascinating histories behind them, including Fehribach’s family stories, Midwestern Food is part memoir, part history textbook, and lucky for us, part cookbook. . . . Though some dismiss the Midwest and its cuisine as boring, Fehribach’s book proves it’s anything but."

“Ambitious, personal, and deeply researched, Mr. Fehribach’s beguiling opus is sure to attract controversy, not only over what dishes he includes and excludes but also over his deﬁnition of the Midwest’s boundaries and which regions within them warrant his focus. The area is so vast and diverse that even its residents don’t always agree whether they should identify as Midwestern, but navigating this geographic and culinary opacity with a guide as knowledgeable as Mr. Fehribach is an indisputable delight. . . . [A]s an addition to the conversation of what has and will make Midwestern food important, this volume is a welcome and generous contribution.”

"Fehribach applies his penchant for painstaking historical research and vivid recollection to his roots in Indiana, as well as broader foodways throughout the Midwest. Personal, historical, and practical, the book touches on family and regional histories, as well as recipes like Detroit-style coney sauce, sorghum-pecan sticky rolls, and pawpaw chiffon pie."

“Fehribach dispels dismissive notions of the Midwest as a land of just meat and potatoes, processed foods, and casseroles (although he does include recipes for some, like the Thanksgiving staple green bean casserole or a Native American twist on hotdish.) . . . Fehribach’s goal: to argue that Midwestern food, so often scoffed at or ignored, is a legitimate and valuable cuisine.”

“In Midwestern Food, Big Jones chef Paul Fehribach digs through centuries-old cookbooks and community publications to explore Midwest culinary practices and how immigration has shaped the way people eat, and he includes recipes for the dishes he writes about.”

“Well beyond a collection of recipes, Midwestern Food is an ambitious history of modern Midwestern foodways that developed over the past two centuries when people from many different cultures descended upon this part of the continent to create better lives for themselves.”

"It’s as much a collection of recipes as it is a tour through our region’s food history. . . . By celebrating these recipes in his new book, he also wanted to dispel some of the small-minded views people might have of Midwestern cooking."

"Midwestern Food by Paul Fehribach is more than just a cookbook — the recipes are great, but stay for the Midwest history that comes alive in the author’s discussions of various ethnic groups, including indigenous peoples and European immigrants, whose contributions and struggles tell the backstory of local foodways and cuisine. The author’s anecdotes, storytelling and solid research provide entertaining insights into our region's food cultures."

“Fehribach includes more than 100 recipes in the book. His Midwest encompasses not just home cooking, but restaurant and street food — including a regional sampling of pizza and barbecue styles and Mexican and Delta tamales — plus quintessential Midwestern condiments and cocktails, such as ranch dressing and Old Fashioneds.”

"While the book includes more than 100 recipes, it's Fehribach's engaging essays about each dish that make this book a must-read for any food-minded Midwesterner worth his or her salt."

"Fehribach presents a master class in a cuisine that has a far-reaching popularity for its salt-of-the-earth origins and deep history. . . . Any midwesterner past or present will enjoy reading about the history of their food and discovering recipes for old favorites and lost gems; all will revel in the detail and nostalgia of Fehribach's tribute to midwestern food."

"There are many good chefs, fewer great chefs, and then there's Paul
Fehribach: Not just a fabulous chef, but a scholar, storyteller, and exemplary ambassador for the foodways of the American Midwest. Midwestern Food will be studied, referenced, cooked out of, and flat-out enjoyed for decades to come."

"The Midwest has long been the neglected region of American cookery. It is no longer. Midwestern Food maps the 'unknown country' with a chef’s sensitivity to local and ethnic foodways, both its country cooking—the most Eurocentric in America—and its city mélange of global cultures. From German Rye Pretzels to Ojibway Manoomin, from cornbelt cornbread to Skyline Chili, the landmark dishes appear—140 in all. Yet Fehribach does more than instruct cooks—he tells the stories—the migrations, adaptations, and creations that make the Midwestern table meaningful. Doing so, he brings the rich story of American Food closer to completion."

“What a wonderful book. This is a dish-by-dish story of what makes the region America’s true heartland cuisine. Part memoir, a very well-researched history of classic Midwestern foods, and a first-rate cookery book, Midwestern Food is and will be the go-to Midwestern cookbook for years to come."

"Chef Paul Fehribach captures our region with his newest publication, essentially a love letter entitled, Midwestern Food, which shares wonderful stories and delicious recipes, all the while folding in snippets from local chefs, farmers, bakers, and more. The book is more than a good read it’s a quintessential handbook to the heartland!"

“What I love about this book is that here in the Midwest many of us grew up with a connection to the land, the farmers, and our grandmothers. I know I grew up cooking with my Grandma Dorothy and like so many incredible people in what is usually considered fly-over land, there is a deep and rich connection to what makes this part of the United States so comforting. In this book, you will find recipes from Chef Fehribach that give you history as well as precise execution to help make your table more like the homes we grew up in. Enjoy!”

“What the great Edna Lewis did for Southern cooking, Fehribach has surely done here for his beloved Midwest. As a child of Minnesota, who studied in Wisconsin, and lived and worked in Iowa, Michigan, and Illinois, I thought I knew all there was about our regional delicacies. Fehribach goes deeper—like a gumshoe detective with a laser focus on culinary tradition—uncovering and sharing his research like a proud blue ribbon winner at the county fair. Not only does he introduce you to forgotten dishes like Persimmon Pudding and the Horseshoe, but he also leads you by the hand, helping you recreate the dishes originally created by the German, Scandinavian, Jewish, and Polish settlers who planted roots here and made the region their home. I’ve eaten hot dish and Delta tamales and chili dozens of times, but now I want to go make them in my own kitchen, so I can teach others the lost art of the Midwestern table.”

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