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Sexing La Mode: Gender, Fashion and Commercial Culture in Old Regime France

Autor Jennifer Jones
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 30 iun 2004
The connection between fashion, femininity, frivolity and Frenchness has become a cliché. Yet, relegating fashion to the realm of frivolity and femininity is a distinctly modern belief that developed along with the urban culture of the Enlightenment. In eighteenth-century France, a commercial culture filled with shop girls, fashion magazines and window displays began to supplant a court-based fashion culture based on rank and distinction, stimulating debates over the proper relationship between women and commercial culture, public and private spheres, and morality and taste. Mary Wollstonecraft was one of those particularly critical of this 'vulgar' obsession with 'tawdry finery', declaring it to be 'merely the external mark of a depravity shared with slaves'.The story of how la mode was 'sexed' as feminine offers a compelling insight into the political, economic and cultural tensions that marked the birth of modern commercial culture. Jones examines men's and women's relation to fashion at this time, looking at both consumption and production to argue how clothing was becoming increasingly conceptualized as feminine/effeminate.A concise history of French fashion culture suitable for anyone interested in eighteenth-century culture, women and gender studies or fashion history.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781859738351
ISBN-10: 1859738354
Pagini: 256
Ilustrații: 20 b&w illustrations, bibliography, index
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 13 mm
Greutate: 0.36 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Berg Publishers
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Also available in hardback, 9781859738306 £50.00 (July, 2004)

Notă biografică

Jennifer M. Jones is Graduate Director of Women's Studies and Associate Professor of History, Rutgers University

Cuprins

ContentsList of IllustrationsAcknowledgmentsPrologue: The Morning Toilette Introduction Part I La Cour:Absolutism and Appearance in the Court of Louis XIV Chapter 1 Courting La Mode and Costuming the French Chapter 2 Fashion Culture in PrintChapter 3 Objects of Desire, Subjects of the KingPart II La Ville:Clothing and Consumption in an Enlightened Society of Taste Chapter 4 A Natural Right to Dress WomenChapter 5 The Agreeable Art of Clothing Chapter 6 Coquettes and GrisettesChapter 7 Selling La Mode ConclusionEpilogue: From the Absolutist Gaze to the Republican LookSelect secondary bibliographyIndex

Recenzii

'The recent release of Sofia Coppola's 'Marie Antoinette', with its lavish and detailed depiction of eighteenth-century court dress, suggests an enduring interest in the topic of fashion. As someone with a deep personal interest in 'La Mode', I was enormously pleased to be assigned the task of reviewing Jennifer M. Jones's book on fashion, gender and shopping under the Old Regime, especially since it is well-written and engaging.'Christine Adams, H-France Review

Descriere

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The story of how la mode was "sexed" as feminine offers insight into the political, economic and cultural tensions that marked the birth of modern commercial culture. Jones examines men's and women's relation to fashion to argue how clothing was becoming increasingly conceptualised as feminine.