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Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression: Dress, Body, Culture

Autor Jennifer Craik
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 31 mai 2005
There is nothing uniform about wearing a uniform. This one article of clothing has arguably had a greater impact on the world than any other. From fascists to fashionistas, Uniforms Exposed looks at this most extraordinary of ordinary garments and its cultural meaning in our everyday lives. Tracing the troubling connections amongst religious orders, the military, schools and fetish clubs, Craik shows how uniforms alternately control bodies and enable subversion. What does it mean to wear one? Why do certain professions require them? Do they really tell wearers how to act and others how to respond? Answering these intriguing questions and many more, Craik shows how the uniform inspires fear and love, conformity and subversion, and why it has continued to fascinate across cultures and throughout history.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781859738986
ISBN-10: 1859738982
Pagini: 256
Ilustrații: 53 b&w illustrations, bibliography, index
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 19 mm
Greutate: 0.72 kg
Ediția:English.
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Berg Publishers
Seria Dress, Body, Culture

Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Also available in paperback, 9781859738047 £16.99 (June, 2005)

Notă biografică

Jennifer Craik is Professor in the School of Creative Communication at the University of Canberra, Australia.

Cuprins

Part I: Uniforms and Culture
Uniforms, Body Techniques and Culture
Why Do Uniforms Intrigue Us?
Technique of the Uniformed Body
The Emergence of Uniforms of Modernity
Part II: Uniforms and Authority
From Military Uniforms To Codified Civility
From Identification to Indulgence to Utilitarianism
Glamour, Discipline, Modernity
Functionality, Sexuality, Colonisation
Military Uniforms and Civil Life
School Uniforms and Docile Bodies
Uniforms and Pedagogy
Modern Masculinity and the Rise of School Uniforms
One of the Boys? Uniform Codes and Feminine Persona
Modifying School Uniforms Amid Youth Culture
The School Uniform Debate Today
Uniform Techniques Despite Fashion Changes
Women in Uniform
Modern Identities for Plucky Heroines
Policing Femininity
Fighting Women
Brides of Christ or Sister Act: Dressing Women Clergy
Sexualising Uniforms
Part III: Uniforms for Work and Leisure
Uniforms at Work
Classic Elements of Work Uniforms
'Flight Refreshments': Dressing Airlines
The Work of Occupational Uniforms
Interpreting Occupational Uniforms
Corporate, Quasi and Informal Uniforms
Ambiguity and Occupational Identity
Sports Uniforms to Sportswear
Sporting Bodies and Disciplined Selves
Defining Sports Uniforms and Sportswear
Shaping Sports Uniforms: Some Historical Currents
The Gendering of Sports Uniforms
The Transformation of Sportswear Under Consumer Culture
Fashioning Sports Clothing as Lifestyle Couture
Sports Clothing as Fashion
The Lycra Revolution
Body Technologies
From Stylish Sports Clothing to Sporty Style
Part IV: Uniform Culture
Uniforms in Fashion and Popular Culture
Uniforms and Popular Culture
Uniforms in Hollywood Musicals
The Uniform in Fashion Photography
Uniform Influences on Design
Postmodern Sensibilities
Subcultures and Uniforms
From West to East-And Back Again
The Popularity of Uniforms and Sexual Frisson
Transgressive Uniforms in Contemporary Culture
The Power of Uniforms
Ecclesiastical Dress: From Carnival to Carnal
Transgression and Culture
The Transgressive Uptake of Uniforms
Discipine and transgression
Radicalism and transgression
Sexuality and transgression

Recenzii

In an extraordinarily wide-ranging survey of the historical and contemporary construction - and constriction - of uniform, from surgeon's gowns to sportswear, from high school dress codes to Hollywood fantasies, from khaki to Kylie, Jennifer Craik parades a fascinating array. Her rigorous personal inspection presents a revealing peek under the tunic, and why it is worn. In the process she exposes the hitherto-overlooked power of institutional costume.
Craik's book makes a valuable contribution to our understandings of a most ubiquitous form of dress.. Her analysis takes us on a journey through the history of uniforms but the appeal of this book is that it takes the debate about uniforms beyond the obvious (military and schools) and into contemporary fashion. From disciplinary technique to sexual practice, uniforms are shown to have multiple meanings and varied connections to the body. An entertaining and well-written volume.
This fascinating study describes a wide range of uniforms (military, religious, occupational, sports) and intriguingly shows how uniforms serve two sides of control, overt and covert.

Descriere

From fascists to fashionistas, this work looks at clothing and its cultural meaning in our everyday lives. Tracing the troubling connections amongst religious orders, the military, schools and fetish clubs, it shows how uniforms control bodies and enable subversion. It shows how the uniform inspires fear and love, conformity and subversion.